New route in Ribaritsa-"The tufa sector"

A new route was equipped in the sector with the colonnettes with an estimated category of 8a+. With the help of Julsky and Pesho-“the slack-line” the route was climbed up and down, cleaned, labeled and bolted. Julsky’s first comment was that the line will not be more than 7b, but after some difficulties with the crux, it became clear that it will be a little bit more. The climbing is on pinches and is very technical, the length is 25 m and the deviation from the base is about 7 meters.
This is the second route equipped after "Sky cuckoo” 7c +, and four more lines are prepared for bolting.
This sector is about to emerge as part of a maniac project for which the info will be released soon.
Here is a sketch with what has been made until now /marked with black are the lines prepared for bolting /:



1.King Kong 8a
2.Sky cuckoo 7c+
editor:Milena Georgieva

Opletnja

Opletnya is located in the Iskar Gorge at about 10km from the station of Lakatnik direction Mezdra. From the main road when you see the sign for "Opletnya" you turn left towards the valley, where the village is located and on the left side of it you can see the sector. You drive on a dirt road alongside the river near a kilometer and there is a small reservoir on the left side which serves as a landmark of where the path starts to the rocks. The markings have been made with red spray and at the top part of the path there is a steep scree, which is equipped with a rope railing. In normal pace it takes only 20 minutes. The rocks are northeast oriented, which makes them ideal for climbing in summertime.
The rocks were equipped 2007 from Yavor Panov, Mincho Petkov, Kiril Hristov and Boyko Lalov. The project was funded by BFKA again, and also “PIK3000 "provided 50 bolts and two tubes of HILTI glue.
Despite the favorable conditions for climbing in summer, the relatively easy approach and the great view, the sector goes under "Forgotten" list. However, the rocks are there and will not escape, and routes will be checked for falling stones soon.
Here are some pictures and guide of the routes:


1.And here is the sun! -6c- 25м, 15 примки
1аFiesta/variant/ -? - 25м, 13 примки
2.The good -7а - 25м, 15 примки
3.The bad -6c+ - 30м ,15 примки
4.The evle - 7c - 30м, 15 примки
5.Diun - 7c+ - 30м ,15 примки
6.I,the robot - 7а - 25м ,15 примки
6a.Projekt
7.Punta mara - 7c - 25м ,15 примки
8.Didi,didi! - 7b+ - 25м, 15 примки
9.El chervei - 7а+ - 25м 15 примки
10.Candy - 7c - 12м ,7 примки
11.Gruch -7b/b+- 12м ,5 примки
12.Black perl -7c+ - 30м ,17 примки
13.Moon rainbow -6c+ - 20м ,12 примки
14.Iron fingers - 8b+/c?-17m ,10 примки







editor:Milena Georgieva

Ribarica-"The tufa sector"

… Once it became clear that materials for equipping the routes over Ribaritsa will be bought by BFCA, we did some cleaning of the rocks. It turned out that there are more stones to be pushed down from over the routes than on themselves. Of course, we decided to clean the most maniac lines – where the rock has formed into the biggest tufas. The result was not according to our expectations for hard stuff but as a start it was ok – one route 7a+ which we called “Rebraritsa” and one 7b+ “Otbor kalfi”.
During our second “campaign” things started to get rough. We fixed a rope in the right part of the sector оn the base of which there is a small cave. From the beginning we decided that all routes will be climbed from down-up so there are no mistakes with the placing of the bolts. We hung out there for nearly 3 hours to clean everything that is potentially dangerous and another 2 hours waited for Mincho to climb and mark. Because of the strongly overhanging first part, the usage of many sky hooks was inevitable, which later gave the name of the route “Sky cuckoo” with a preliminary grade of 7c+/8a.
Here are some photos of both days and several new sectors, which we found in the same area:

editor:Milena Georgieva