Expect in the blog most current information on equipping the sport routes in Bulgaria, pictures, schemes, categories, comments, climbing

сряда, 16 юни 2010 г.

"Sinite stegi"(The blue overhangs")Vraca

Making routes is what kept me motivated during the two years that I was injured. Finding the movements of the rock and grading correctly involves a lot of thought and physical labor, but the reward that remains after is uncomparable, almost as much as climbing itself.

Having spent more than 20 days on Ribaritsa rocks, I decided it was time for a change of the surroundings and the new sector of Vratsa was more than adequate for the idea. I had my eye on the rocks for some time, but I had heard from friends who have gone there, they are very smooth and loose in places. One day Mitaka (Tzolov) told me he went to the place and that he has seen many maniac lines. So after a lasure walk to there one day, I already knew where I would be as soon as possible.
The first time I went with a machine, I was with Racheto and Rumba. We marked the lines very quickly and set to attack. I was very surprised how clean it looked and how big the variety of holds was (mostly the sloppery holds so untypical for Vratsa rock). Rumba and Racheto made several attempts on both lines to determine the points for the bolts. Rumba’s route - called "Pumbaa", is divided into two parts, the first is about 8a, the second is still a project. The route I made goes almost all the way up, and and to my humble opinion is not less than 8c +. Here are some photos from that day.

The second day I was with Nicolai and Rus.
The line I have chosen was obviously very maniac - strongly overhanging, half arch with many small pintches and topping out like a boulder rock.
Looking for easy routes, Rus and Nikki found some lines which emerged to be not so easy. Nikolai route is within 7C and Rus’s is about 7C + the first part with a sequel around 8a+/b.

The last time we went we spent the night there hoping that the weather will be nice and we will be able to finish more work. During the first day it was just me and Rus, but even in the absence of a helper, we sticked together so well that the work flowed perfectly and despite the kiiling heat, (which is the main reason that makes you lazy), we succeeded in doing satisfyingly enough work.
The two lines that I managed to do this day fall into the “heavy weights” category, but for one I have serious great doubts/expectations it will be minimum 8C +. Of course all the categories I give are quite hypothetical and what I hope for is that they soon be tried and and even climbed.
Rus had some finishing work /mainly strengthening of some holds/ on the routes which he had bolted the previous days.
At the end of my day we just dreamed of how we will “decompose” with cold beer on the steps of the"Red Square". To join us came Julsky who has been climbing all day in the area.
The place for camping was tested by Rus before many times before, but I had opened my Decathlon tent only at home. Things became even uglier after it started raining but we were more worried by the thought of tomorrow. We had left all the equipment under the rocks not knowing what condition it will be when we go take it. Fortunately, the weather calmed down and the on morning it was great. After a little bit of stretching and fast cleaning of the place, we drank coffee and headed for the rocks.
This day we did two routes, both by category around 7C+.
So far, the number of the routes is 13 and here is the guidebook as well as some photos in Picassa /at the bottom/.

editor:Milena Georgieva

1. The nose 7с
2.Pumba 8а
2а. Pumba second part ? (project)
3. King Lion 8b+
4.Babaljuga 8с?
5.Sometimes win,sometimes sljun 8с+???
5а. Sometimes win,sometimes sljun 2 part (project)
6. Bear’s water 8b+???
6а. project
7. Diagonal paralysis 8b???
8. Route CHuchur 7с
9.Sir Elton John 7с
9а. Sir Elton John, 2 part 8a+
10. fahrenheit 9/11 7a+
11.Lakatnik 8в+???
12.Zlokuchene 7с+??/проект/
13.Kamata 7с+


сряда, 14 април 2010 г.

New route in Ribaritsa-"The tufa sector"

A new route was equipped in the sector with the colonnettes with an estimated category of 8a+. With the help of Julsky and Pesho-“the slack-line” the route was climbed up and down, cleaned, labeled and bolted. Julsky’s first comment was that the line will not be more than 7b, but after some difficulties with the crux, it became clear that it will be a little bit more. The climbing is on pinches and is very technical, the length is 25 m and the deviation from the base is about 7 meters.
This is the second route equipped after "Sky cuckoo” 7c +, and four more lines are prepared for bolting.
This sector is about to emerge as part of a maniac project for which the info will be released soon.
Here is a sketch with what has been made until now /marked with black are the lines prepared for bolting /:

1.King Kong 8a
2.Sky cuckoo 7c+
editor:Milena Georgieva


Opletnya is located in the Iskar Gorge at about 10km from the station of Lakatnik direction Mezdra. From the main road when you see the sign for "Opletnya" you turn left towards the valley, where the village is located and on the left side of it you can see the sector. You drive on a dirt road alongside the river near a kilometer and there is a small reservoir on the left side which serves as a landmark of where the path starts to the rocks. The markings have been made with red spray and at the top part of the path there is a steep scree, which is equipped with a rope railing. In normal pace it takes only 20 minutes. The rocks are northeast oriented, which makes them ideal for climbing in summertime.
The rocks were equipped 2007 from Yavor Panov, Mincho Petkov, Kiril Hristov and Boyko Lalov. The project was funded by BFKA again, and also “PIK3000 "provided 50 bolts and two tubes of HILTI glue.
Despite the favorable conditions for climbing in summer, the relatively easy approach and the great view, the sector goes under "Forgotten" list. However, the rocks are there and will not escape, and routes will be checked for falling stones soon.
Here are some pictures and guide of the routes:

1.And here is the sun! -6c- 25м, 15 примки
1аFiesta/variant/ -? - 25м, 13 примки
2.The good -7а - 25м, 15 примки
3.The bad -6c+ - 30м ,15 примки
4.The evle - 7c - 30м, 15 примки
5.Diun - 7c+ - 30м ,15 примки
6.I,the robot - 7а - 25м ,15 примки
7.Punta mara - 7c - 25м ,15 примки
8.Didi,didi! - 7b+ - 25м, 15 примки
9.El chervei - 7а+ - 25м 15 примки
10.Candy - 7c - 12м ,7 примки
11.Gruch -7b/b+- 12м ,5 примки
12.Black perl -7c+ - 30м ,17 примки
13.Moon rainbow -6c+ - 20м ,12 примки
14.Iron fingers - 8b+/c?-17m ,10 примки

editor:Milena Georgieva

вторник, 6 април 2010 г.

Ribarica-"The tufa sector"

… Once it became clear that materials for equipping the routes over Ribaritsa will be bought by BFCA, we did some cleaning of the rocks. It turned out that there are more stones to be pushed down from over the routes than on themselves. Of course, we decided to clean the most maniac lines – where the rock has formed into the biggest tufas. The result was not according to our expectations for hard stuff but as a start it was ok – one route 7a+ which we called “Rebraritsa” and one 7b+ “Otbor kalfi”.
During our second “campaign” things started to get rough. We fixed a rope in the right part of the sector оn the base of which there is a small cave. From the beginning we decided that all routes will be climbed from down-up so there are no mistakes with the placing of the bolts. We hung out there for nearly 3 hours to clean everything that is potentially dangerous and another 2 hours waited for Mincho to climb and mark. Because of the strongly overhanging first part, the usage of many sky hooks was inevitable, which later gave the name of the route “Sky cuckoo” with a preliminary grade of 7c+/8a.
Here are some photos of both days and several new sectors, which we found in the same area:

editor:Milena Georgieva

неделя, 28 март 2010 г.

"Blue wheel-Teteven

The last climbing season turned out to be very active both for climbers and route setters. Fortunately for all of us, it appeared that the so desired formations – the tuffas, are no longer mirage and we don’t need to go to Spain or Greece to jam knees anymore. With painstaking work and a lot of dedication on the rock massif the “Blue Wheel” situated over Teteven we have set over 15 routes with difficulty from 5c to 8c(?). Most of the routes are split into two parts due to the extensive height of the rocks. The sector is facing east making it suitable for climbing in spring, summer and autumn seasons. The substantial overhanging upper part and the canopy of trees’ crowns form an “umbrella” and it is possible to climb even in heavy rain. The place can be reached by a path that has a joint start with the eco-path for the “Dangerous tooth” hut/shelter. The markings from the stone pyramid show the place where the path splits into two and goes into the forest. After 20-minute walk you reach a rock threshold that is equipped with rope railing all the way to the routes. The development of the sector is supported by BFCA, Kiril Christov (“The Sloper”), who found the rocks and gave the initial push, and by “PIK3000” who joined the project with a lot of bolts. Here are photos and guide for the routes.

editor:Milena Georgieva

more pics here

1 Pucai kume 7a+ 25м 10 bolts

2 The Farm 7b+ 27м 7+7 bolts

3 Agro Dancehall проект 29м 7+8 bolts

4 Moonwalker/first part/ 5с 25м 11 bolts
Moonwalker(second part) 7с 50м 11+11bolts

5 Black cat 7c+ 46м 13 bolts

6 White cat 7с 45м 13 bolts

7 NO Power(first part) 7b 25м 10 bolts
NO Power(second part) 8a+ 50м 10+9 bolts

8 Crazy young(first part) 6b 20м 7 bolts
Crazy young(second part) 8b 40м 7+10 bolts

9 Ludo Bile(Bella Dona) 8b+ 55м 7+10 bolts

10 The blue wheel(first part) 7a+\7b 25м 8 bolts
The blue wheel(second part) 8c 52м 8+8 bolts

11 Chetprom(първа част) 7а 25м 9 bolts
Chetprom(second part) 8a+ 49м 9+6 bolts

12 Natural high(first part) 8a 40м 17 bolts
Natural high(second part) 8b+ 55м 17+4 bolts

13 Heroe-project 40м 11 bolts

14 Up in the smoke 7b+ 37м 15 bolts

Dryanovo and Ribaritsa- the new meccas

After a two-day intelligence, finally I got some pictures from Ribaritsa and Drjanovo.My trip to the Dryanovo Monastery was designed to assess the potential of rocks and about how many bolts will be needed .I know that the area is very large, but only does so, it took me 4 hours to travel, and it's not all!
Ribaritsa was the second destination that i visit.The Rocks who saw from the road was a small part of what was hiding in the forest.Definitely i found what I was looking for, namely: strong blue-orange rock with a unique relef.The area is about a kilometer, and the height varies from 10 m to 30m.
For the development of the two sites are written projects to BFCA/Bulgarian federation of climbing and alpinizum/.Hera are some photos of both places.