Having spent more than 20 days on Ribaritsa rocks, I decided it was time for a change of the surroundings and the new sector of Vratsa was more than adequate for the idea. I had my eye on the rocks for some time, but I had heard from friends who have gone there, they are very smooth and loose in places. One day Mitaka (Tzolov) told me he went to the place and that he has seen many maniac lines. So after a lasure walk to there one day, I already knew where I would be as soon as possible.
The first time I went with a machine, I was with Racheto and Rumba. We marked the lines very quickly and set to attack. I was very surprised how clean it looked and how big the variety of holds was (mostly the sloppery holds so untypical for Vratsa rock). Rumba and Racheto made several attempts on both lines to determine the points for the bolts. Rumba’s route - called "Pumbaa", is divided into two parts, the first is about 8a, the second is still a project. The route I made goes almost all the way up, and and to my humble opinion is not less than 8c +. Here are some photos from that day.
The second day I was with Nicolai and Rus.
The line I have chosen was obviously very maniac - strongly overhanging, half arch with many small pintches and topping out like a boulder rock.
Looking for easy routes, Rus and Nikki found some lines which emerged to be not so easy. Nikolai route is within 7C and Rus’s is about 7C + the first part with a sequel around 8a+/b.
The last time we went we spent the night there hoping that the weather will be nice and we will be able to finish more work. During the first day it was just me and Rus, but even in the absence of a helper, we sticked together so well that the work flowed perfectly and despite the kiiling heat, (which is the main reason that makes you lazy), we succeeded in doing satisfyingly enough work.
The two lines that I managed to do this day fall into the “heavy weights” category, but for one I have serious great doubts/expectations it will be minimum 8C +. Of course all the categories I give are quite hypothetical and what I hope for is that they soon be tried and and even climbed.
Rus had some finishing work /mainly strengthening of some holds/ on the routes which he had bolted the previous days.
At the end of my day we just dreamed of how we will “decompose” with cold beer on the steps of the"Red Square". To join us came Julsky who has been climbing all day in the area.
The place for camping was tested by Rus before many times before, but I had opened my Decathlon tent only at home. Things became even uglier after it started raining but we were more worried by the thought of tomorrow. We had left all the equipment under the rocks not knowing what condition it will be when we go take it. Fortunately, the weather calmed down and the on morning it was great. After a little bit of stretching and fast cleaning of the place, we drank coffee and headed for the rocks.
This day we did two routes, both by category around 7C+.
So far, the number of the routes is 13 and here is the guidebook as well as some photos in Picassa /at the bottom/.
1. The nose 7с
2а. Pumba second part ? (project)
3. King Lion 8b+
5.Sometimes win,sometimes sljun 8с+???
5а. Sometimes win,sometimes sljun 2 part (project)
6. Bear’s water 8b+???
7. Diagonal paralysis 8b???
8. Route CHuchur 7с
9.Sir Elton John 7с
9а. Sir Elton John, 2 part 8a+
10. fahrenheit 9/11 7a+